The Claire and Mama 2-way Dolman Top patterns are in the shop! If you haven’t purchased Claire and Mama Claire, purchase here! Now we are going to make a few modifications to change up the look and get more out of your pattern!
During the early pretesting phases of Mama Claire, we couldn’t decide which way we preferred to wear the crossover. “Why should we have to choose?!” Here is a tutorial to show you how to make a double crossover top. 🙂 This is made using Mama Claire, but you could most definitely apply the construction to make Claire for girls have a double crossover as well!
Instead of cutting out a bodice (on the fold) and 2 crossover bodices (mirror images), you will cut out 4 crossover bodices (2 sets of mirror images). You will also need to cut out 2 neckbands. I show you how to measure and calculate your neckbands further down in this post.
Lay out one front crossover bodice and one back crossover bodice.
Place one front crossover bodice and one back crossover bodice right sides together. Pin shoulder. Stitch shoulder. Repeat with other two bodices.
If adding 3/4 or long sleeves, open up shirt and add at this time. Repeat for other sleeve.
Quarter the neckline by folding the crossover bodices to the shoulder seam. Place pins at the quarter points. Repeat on other side.
How to measure for your neckband…
Measure along the neckline of the front and back bodice (highlighted in yellow) as seen in the picture below. Your neckband will be 90% of the finished neckline. Cut 2 neckbands. For example, the finished indigo neckband measurement will be: 45 x 0.9 = 40.5. So you will cut 2 bands at 2″ x 40.5″
Press neckbands in half lengthwise wrong sides together and quarter both bands per tutorial instructions.
Pin one neckband to one neckline right sides together. The center pin of neckband will match to the shoulder seam. Match pins and stitch together. Press band and topstitch if desired. Repeat with other side.
Following the directions in step 6, we are going to cross the bodices in the front and back.
Pin bodices together from sleeve hem to bodice bottom along both sides and stitch per tutorial instructions.
Finish construction following step 7 of the tutorial.