Do you dream of pants that fit perfectly?! With a soft measuring tape and a little easy math, you can make that dream your reality!
- Women’s Lexi
Let’s assume you have already selected your pattern, learned how to measure yourself to select the correct size, printed your pattern, and graded sizes for best fit.
Need guidance through this first part of the process? We can help!
- Still need to find a pattern? Made for Mermaids Pants Patterns
- Brand new to PDF Patterns? Check out our PDF 101 post here, our PDF 102 post here, and our PDF 103 post here.
- Not sure how to measure yourself? See our blog post here.
- New to grading? Grading 101
- Want a cute and simple way to track your measurements? FREE Printable Measurement Chart
Now that you have selected and prepared your pattern, we are ready to begin. Watch the video or read on below:
The Made for Mermaids adult women’s patterns are drafted for the average height of 5’5″ (for children’s and men’s sizes, see size chart included with the pattern).
The “rule of thumb” is to add or remove 1/2″ for every 1″ difference from the drafted height. However, for pants, in order to accurately adjust pants to fit your body, you will need to compare your measurements to the average inseam length of 32”,and the average waist to hip length of 8.25”.
*This rule of thumb will apply to ALL pants patterns with VERTICAL stretch. If you are working on a pattern with no stretch, your adjustments will be 1:1 (ie; 1 inch difference will equal 1 inch alteration”
If your inseam is OVER 32”, or your waist to hip is OVER 8.25″, You will need to do a TALL Adjustment to add length.
If your inseam is UNDER 32”, or your waist to hip is UNDER 8.25″, you will need to do a PETITE Adjustment to remove length.
TALL ADJUSTMENT:
For every 1” above the 32” inseam, you should add 1/2” throughout the leg portion of the pattern.
Use the same method for adding length to the rise if your waist to hip is over 8.25″.
Tall Adjustment Example: a person with a 34” inseam and 9” waist to hip measurement has a difference of 2” height in inseam and 1.75” difference inseam. This person will need to add 1” height throughout the leg and .875” (7/8″) in the inseam.
PETITE ADJUSTMENT:
For every 1” below the 32” inseam, you should remove 1/2” throughout the leg portion of the pattern.
Use the same method for removing length from the rise if your waist to hip is under 8.25″.
Petite Adjustment Example: a person with a 30” inseam and 7.25” waist to hip measurement has a difference of 2” height in inseam and 1” difference inseam. This person will need to remove 1” height throughout the leg and .5” in the inseam.
Altering Your Pattern:
You do not want to simply add or remove from the hemline! To maintain the style of the pattern, it is better to spread the alterations throughout.
Lay the Pattern in front of you:
- Use your complete measurement chart and check the difference between your crotch to knee measurement, and knee to hemline measurement; compare these measurements to the pattern to help you determine where you need the most increase/decrease.
- Slash: To evenly distribute the amount of increase/decrease, you are going to slash perpendicular to the grainline at approximately mid-thigh level and mid-calf level (and the rise if necessary).
- Slash Once in Thigh and Calf
- Avoid Slashing in the Knee Area to Maintain Style Lines
- Spread or Overlap the pieces to equal the amount of increase or decrease you require. (be sure to slash and spread in the same areas, in the same amounts to the front and back pattern pieces) Note: If you are doing a TALL adjustment you will need extra paper to fill in empty space you have created.
- Overlap for Petite Adjustment
- Spread for Tall Adjustment
- Tape your new pattern together
- Using a curved design ruler, smooth the lines of the pattern.
Your alterations are complete and you will now follow the construction steps in the tutorial of the pattern you modified!
Need more fitting help? Ask for help in the Made for Mermaids Facebook Group or read the 101 Series on the Blog.
Looking for Made for Mermaids pants patterns? Find them here.
Happy Sewing!
-Bekah
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