Day 6 – Christmas Tree Skirt

On the sixth day of Christmas, Made for Mermaids gave to me…..a Christmas tree skirt that’s so quick and easy! The tree skirt really is quick, and you can use any woven fabric – faux fur, non-stretch velvets, quilted fabrics, quilting cottons, and more! If you opt to use ribbons or bias tape for your ties, it makes the skirt and even faster sew.

SUPPLIES:

batting or fusible fleece – 1 1/3 yard for 45″ skirt; 1 2/3 yard for 60″ skirt
main skirt fabric – 1 1/3 yards for 45″ skirt; 1 2/3 yards for 60″ skirt
bottom skirt fabric – 1 1/3 yards or 45″ skirt ; 1 2/3 yards for 60″ skirt
fabric or ribbon for ties – eight 12″ x 2″ ties; more if desired
sewing basics – thread, scissors, etc.
optional: ruffle, trim, etc for outer edge of tree skirt – 4 yards for 45″ skirt; 5 yards for 60″ skirt
- NOTE: To create your own ruffle, you will need roughly double the yardage listed above. I made a very long strip (3″ x roughly 30′ – I didn’t measure exactly, but it was a LOT of gathering) for my ruffle. I used multiple smaller strips sewn together, so I didn’t start with 30 continuous feet of fabric.

If hand tying to finish:

tapestry needle
yarn or embroidery floss

LET’S GET STARTED!

1/2″ seam allowances included unless otherwise noted.

Step 1: PREPPING

NOTE: The tutorial photos are of a smaller tree skirt, so that the pieces are easier to fit in each frame. Your pieces will be larger.

Go grab the pattern here! The pattern is 100% free, but you do need to add it to your cart and checkout. Then, it will always be available to download from your account. The pattern is a no trim pattern; if you need help putting the pattern together, pop over to the faqs and troubleshooting page or ask in our Facebook group .

Cut one main, one back, and one lightweight batting or fusible fleece. Cut eight ties. You can use something pre-made like ribbon, or cut eight fabric strips at 2″ x 12″.

There are three skirt opening cut lines; choose based on your specific tree/tree stand. I would recommend measuring the diameter of your tree/stand to see which opening is best for you. You can also modify if you need a different size opening; simply use the existing cut lines as a guide to help make the opening smaller or larger. I would measure prior to cutting your fabric. Remember that you will lose 1″ to seam allowance, so be sure to factor that in when determining size.

There are also two skirt width cut lines. The black cut line (on the 45” layer) will finish a little shorter than 45”; it was intended for 45” wide fabrics (most wovens). I have a wider store bought skirt that I love, so I also included that width (red cut line, finishing a little under 60”) for those with wider fabrics! You can often find quilting fabrics wider than 45”, although the selection/variety may not be as good.

Step 2: CUTTING

Make one straight cut, along ONE fold line on all three skirt pieces.

Step 3: BATTING

Baste batting/fleece to WRONG side of main fabric with 1/4″ seam allowance. Treat as one layer after basting.

Step 4: OPTIONAL – ADDING RUFFLE/TRIM

If you want to add a ruffle or trim to your skirt, do this now! Attach to your main skirt raw edge (right side) with 1/2″ seam allowance. Begin and end your trim 1/2″ from each edge of the skirt.

Making your own ruffle? Folded your strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, run two rows of gathering stitches at 1/4″ and 5/8″ from the raw edges opposite the fold, and then gather to match the circumference of your skirt.

Step 5: ATTACHING TIES

Create your ties, if not using ribbon or bias tape. Fold in half widthwise, with right sides together. Stitch along the long side and one short side, with 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to 1/4″ using pinking shears to help prevent fraying. Turn and press. Topstitch if desired. Repeat for all eight ties.

Using ribbon, bias tape, etc? Cut into 12″ strips.

Add ties to both sides of your main skirt. Place one 1/2″ down from the top edge, one 1/2″ up from the bottom edge, and then evenly space the remaining ties. Repeat for other side. You’re welcome to use more than 8, if you prefer!

NOTE: I’ve only shown six below, as I used a smaller sample size for the skirt!

Step 6: CONSTRUCTING SKIRT

Place back and main skirts with RIGHT sides together, being sure to line up raw edges along inner circle opening, fold line cuts, and borrow raw edges. Make sure to tuck your trim and ties out of the way so they don’t get eaten up in your seam allowance!

Stitch all the way around your tree skirt, leaving a 4-5″ opening along the bottom outer edge.

Clip the inner curve of the skirt with pinking shears or scissors. This will help your skirt to lie flat. Be careful not to clip through your stitches!

Notch the outer curve of the skirt with pinking shears or scissors. You can trim the seam allowance on both straight edges with your pinking shears if desired. Clip corners, as well.

Press seam allowance open at skirt opening. Turn right side out.

Step 7: CLOSING AND TOP STITCHING

Push out all corners and press. Use your favorite hand stitch to close up the opening. Top stitch if desired.

Step 8: FINISHING

Using embroidery floss, yarn, or similar, hand tie your lining/batting/main layers together. You will need a tapestry needle with a sharp point and large eye. Decide where you would like to tie your skirt. You can space out your hand ties to fit your personal preference, but a good starting point is between 4”-6” apart.

Thread the needle. Starting from the main layer, insert needle through all three layers, and then back up through all three layers, about 1/4” away from the initial starting point. Leave yourself a 2-3” tail for tying. Using a double knot, tie your tails together. Trim to fit your preference, and then continue for the remainder of your ties.

Alternatively, or in addition to hand tying, you could also machine stitch small “x”s throughout your skirt, again being sure to space them evenly as with the hand tying. You can hand tie with small bows, tie so that your knot is on the bottom, and more!